RRRailways — Gluing
Following a scandalous ban on Railroad-line.com, I’ve transfrred my contributions there to my own blog.
See my other threads:
|Posted – 10/20/2016 : 02:24:57 AM
| Larger scale has its own gluing problems:
– larger mass of items,
– kids handle most everything in hands-on play.
In outside layouts, weather elements and moisture take additional toll. Animals and birds don’t know they cannot look for food under a model that is not fastened to the base… or take natural fibrous roof material for nests :)))
In my case — RRRailways from junk, incl. plastic, ability to bond plastic could determine the success of a project.After couple of years of playing in my railway empire 🙂 the biggest problem is still gluing the difficult sort of plastic. I’ve tried a few commercial glues for plastics, but nothing works ideally and eventually the bonds fall apart. Two-part epoxy — ditto.
In the meantime, by trial and error and by testing outside, I found new glues and improved techniques with other materials:
– Ordinary silicone bonds alu to alu and wood quite well, also woood to wood if gooed.
– LePage PL construction glue (ordinary “3x”) holds wood to wood and steel, incl. underwater (1 season so far). PL “8x”is even stronger.
– Silicone for gutters does all of the above plus smooth side of marble etc. to same (I build mini-retaining walls from pieces broken off stone counter-tops; the edge has a beautiful large-crystal texture in which the lines that divide layers are lost.
– Glue for white PVC pipe works for polystyrene, but is cheaper than the finer one for models.
– CrazyGlue and such are a waste of time and money. I did my first crazy gluing on painted surface and the paint peeled off of course… I have neither eyes nor patience to paint around bonds.
Plastic adheres better if roughened and/or punctured with. Silicone goes into the holes, forming “locks”.
But if you can, use a screw or bolt where you can for plastic, without loss of visual quality.
I like wood and it pays off: most of it is free of charge, it bonds well with both PL and silicone glue, ages nicely (no elaborate painting)… but requires protection against moisture from the top and the bottom. Tops — protect with impermeable roofing (cedar, bamboo or alu on silicone), permeable materials (e.g. beach mat, raffia, cork sheet, scrabbing pad) on silicone smeared all over the roof surface.
Bottoms — silicone smeared over the entire contact area, a bit higher up the wall or pedestal for water ponding. Similarly, other wooden objects (signs, advertising) I smear silicone all around.
Please share your gluing experience.
Country: Canada | Posts: 80
Following my stealth dismissal from the group, I saved what I wanted to add to the current thread:
After a few weeks of rainy weather, I took down some newer models from the garden for storage inside.
1. Exposed to rain, PL glue does not hold bamboo sticks.
Cause: likely, very dense structure of bamboo material.
Remedy: use silicone for gutters or use wooden sticks instead.
2. Coffee sticks become uneven, stick out at places where there is no glue, which is a benefit (models of sheds, more shoddy appearance) but eventually may cause the boards to fall off.
3. Used for roof cover, plastic grass mat rolls up at its free corners.
Cause for 2 and 3: absence of under-roofing that sheds water well beyond building footprint.
Remedy for 2 and 3: detach mat, provide under-roofing made of impervious material, glue the mat directly to it with silicone.
While fixing no. 3, I will provide multiple layers of “grass” for a thatched roof — a thought I’ve ignored in the hurry of the first attempt.