Piotr Bein's blog = blog Piotra Beina

12/11/2016

RRRailways się podkuwa: warsztat w piwnicy na zimę / Basement workshop

Filed under: Uncategorized — grypa666 @ 05:37

  Część zbioru o budowie w ogrodzie imperium kolejowego RRRailways / Part of series on my garden model imperium RRRailways

Captions bi-lingual: Polish first, followed by “/” and English text. English narrative at http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48089 reproduced below as blocking seems to start on 13.11.2016 for political reasons, more about the scandal on Railroad-line.com that I’ve experienced w/o a word of explanation from the Admin whatsoever! I’ve transferred my contributions there to my own blog.

See my other threads:

RRRailways się podkuwa: warsztat w piwnicy na zimę / Basement workshop

Podsumowanie / Summary

Zaczęło się od Monstrum i wypełniania dołu ściany pianką. / First was Monster and filling in of insulation at the bottom of concrete walls:

beginshop

Miał to być warsztat bez pyłu, ale wkrótce do pomocy przybyła piła stołowa z garażu. / It was to be a dust-free workshop, bur soon the table saw came in from the garage to help:

beginshp1

W sukurs przyszła piła ramieniowa, pasując akurat przy Landarze, zdobyczy także darmowej z netu, dnia następnego po Monstrum. / Chop saw followed, fitting nicely beside Landara who came a day after Monster, free from the net ads, too:

beginshop2

Półmetek / Half done a month from project inception:

halfdone

A tak wygląda nowy warsztat po ukończeniu, 6 tyg. od powstania pomysłu, netto 4 tyg. pracy. / New workshop, finished within 6 weeks from project inception, net 4 weeks of work:

*   *   *

 

Z oziębieniem jesiennym, postanowiłem przenieść główny warsztat do piwnicy na stałe. Będzie to już czwarty z kolei: po garażu, biurze i sypialni🙂 Przyjąłem zasadę: użyć posiadane drewno do maxa, zdobyć co brakuje z placów budowy i działek/domów przeznaczonych do wyburzenia.

shelvesUporządkowałem piwnicę i zbudowałem ciągi półek (dechy z tarasu rozebranego latem 2015), redukując hektary zajmowane przez graty. Pudło na sztorc przy dalszym końcu półki zaowera delikatny model. Na wypadek trzęsienia ziemi opatuliłem go zmiętymi gazetami i torbami plastykowymi, a pudło będzie przymocowane gumami. / I tidied up the basement and built shelving from old 2x6s from terrace renovation in Summer 2015.  Cardboard box at its far end contains a fragile model that I have packed in rumpled paper and plastic against earthquakes. The box will be tied up to the shelving with bungee cords.

patent4 Patent na podpory półek: decha grub. 38 mm przymocowana 4 gwoździami/śrubami do słupków ściany. / My patent for shelf brackets: scrap 2×6 nailed/screwed to the stud

Pod sufitem warsztatu między beleczkami drewnianymi bebechy (przewody, kable, rury) — zostawiam gołe. Do ściany betonowej przyczepiono ocieplenie z białej pianki 5 cm. To trza przykryć, by móc mocować półki i wieszaki na narzędzia. Zacząłem od założenia półki na szczycie ściany betonowej, która wije się nad zatoką i skręca na narożu budynku, kończąc się w połowie drogi do wejścia. Na te półki użyłem krótkie odcinki dech grub. 40 mm, szer 24 cm oraz dechy 40 x 130 mm, jakie przechowuję już 8 lat, bo są sklecone na pióro z  (nienadają się na zginanie, a u mnie opierają się na całej dłg.); zdwoiłem je, by pasowały szerokością do dech solidnych. Dodaną dechę połączyłem długimi wkrętami w kilku miejscach z dechą opartą na betonie — w ten sposób tamta bierzę większość zginania, tj. strzałka jest minimalna.

foamscrapPomieszczenie na warsztat ma okno wysoko nad ścianą betonową w zatoce, wejście z zewn. i otwarte jest na  piwnicę. Pozostałe ściany zbudowano po kanadyjsku (słupki drewniane co 40 cm) i tylko częściowo pokryto płytą gipsową, bez wykańczania spoin. Zdecydowałm nie wykańczać — przez ponad 20 lat, papier na powierzchni gipsu ładnie zbrązowiał.

 U stóp ściany betonowej przykleiłem (PL) drewnoi odpadowe na grubość pianki. Goły beton poniżej białej pianki zakryłem na wcisk pianką odpadową, wypełniając szczeliny i ubytki odpadami z odpadów. Zaoszczdziłem tak parę kawałków kwalitetnej pianki na modele.  / At concrete wall base, I glued scrap wood. Covered naked concrete w. styrofoam by tight fit, filling wider cracks and crannies w. scrap from scrap. I saved this way a few piececs of quality DOW stryro for use in models.

Na wyposażenie warsztatu zdobyłem za darmo z e-ogłoszeń i wmanewrowałem w pojedynkę (w ciagu paru dni!): zabytkowe biurko dębowe z roletą, czyjejś własnej roboty Monstrum czyli zaporę p-czołgową, tj. stół warsztatowy z szufladami oraz ciąg warsztatwowy pod drugą ścianę — Landarę, tj. blaszane szafki pod zlew kuchenny z blatem z grubaśnej sklejki. Biurko dałem żonie do szwalni, za co dostałem stamtąd prostsze biurko.

foamMonstrum i piła stołowa odsunięte od ściany na czas robót. Wejście zewn. po lewej, okno zatokowe po prawej. Na dole ściany przykleiłem do betonu (klej PL600) odpadowe odcinki beleczek, na grubość pianki. Półki 1,5 cala nad pianką podtrzymuje na razie tylko parę cali betonu i listwa przeciw-wywrotowa przykręcona do szkieletu drewnianego ściany powyżej. / Bsmt entry on the left, bay window on the right. Monstrum and table-saw moved away from wall for the time of construction. At concrete wall base, I glued (PL600) scrap wood of the same thickness as foam insulation.

okno

Okno wykończyłem dechami z jakiejś szopy/stodoły, zostawiając naturalny zwietrzały kolor. Półki z dech 1,5 cala oparłem na szczycie ściany betonowej,przykręcone przez tynk gipsowy do szkieletu drewnianego nad betonem. Zbrązowiały papier na płycie gipsowej zostawiam bez malowania. / Treatment w. barn boards around the window, 1,5 inch shelving supported on the concrete wall ledge, screwed thru gyproc to wooden frame of the wall above concrete. Gyproc paper browned down over 20 yrs left unpainted on purpose.

monsterZjazd 200 kg Monstrum do piwnicy: spuściłem go do góry nogami po betonowych schodach wyłożonych arkuszem sklejki, zabezpieczyłem buforem drzwi… ale sklejka ugięła się i wyhamowała Monstrum. Zauważ solidną konstrukcję  warsztatu: pełna tarcica, jakościowe wsporniki szuflad. / I turned Monster upside down and let it slide down concrete stairs covered w. plywood. I protected the door with a buffer, but it wasn’t necessary: bending of the plywood slowed down the 400 pound Monster. Note Monster’s strong build, cabinet-making quality of drawer supports.

monster1 Monstrum w nowym domu, 1-sze zadanie: budowa warsztatu, gdzie będzie bossem🙂 Na prawy koniec prowadzący do nikąd nakręciłem porządną sklejkę z biała wykładziną.żeby mi śrubki niespadały. Monstrum ma parę tyg. na decyzję o kolorze nowego ubrania.  Szuflady wystające na fotce niedziałały po przywiezieniu. Hebel i mydlo przywołały je  do porządku, oprócz tej, której podporę złamałem w transporcie. Schowek w lewej górze do odkadania narzędzi,ktoreprzeszkadszają w pracy. Uchwyty Monstrum dostanie nowe, jak skompletuję. Gniazdko elektryczne będzie połączone sznurem z wtyczką do kontaktu w ścianie. / Monster in new home, first duty: build workshop in which it willbe boss🙂 I closed the right-hand end with plywood finished in white arborite, to keep small things from falling off. I’ll do the same with identical piece on the other end.  The bench will be painted after the room is finished, to better see the colour scheme. Drawers open in the pic did not work on arrival; a hand planer and a soap brought them back to life, except for a drawwr whose support I’ve broken during transport. A niche in the upper left is handy for putting away larger tools that might be in the way of work. Handles will be replaced once I assemble a set. Electric outlet will get a cord to be plugged into the wall.

landara1Landara, 2 razy lżejsza od Monstrum, weszła do piwnicy dnia następnego. Niegdyś stała pod zlewem kuchennym, gdy w l. 1950-ych metalowe szafki kuchenne były szałem w Ameryce; szuflady do dziś bezbłędnie suwają się, drzwiczki pracują bez problemu. Ktoś na służbę w warsztacie dał jej grubą płyte na wierzch.  Z dodatkową dechą, ma wysokość  idealnie jak poziom piły ramiennej na szafce kuchennej przekręconej na bok. / Half the mass of Monster,  Landara enetered the basement next day. This base for a kitchen sink in America’s 1950 craze for metal cabinets still works fine: drawers slide efortlessly, doors close without fail. When converted to workshop duty, she received a thick top whose height perfectly matches the level of my radial saw  standing on a kitchen cabinet turned on its side.

 

1Nad biurkiem w warsztacie podwiesiłem pod sufitem ramki do składowania butelek z winem; odległości pozwalają przechowywać materiał krótki jak i do 2,5 m dłg.  Sklejka  chroni ścianę od obijania materiałem na wieszaku. Przy okazji zreperowałem naroże po szkodzie od pękniętej rury.  Na półce na wierzchu ściany betonowej stoją od lewj 2 mosty: mój 1-szy stojakowy i okazyjnie nabyty drewniany w systemie Howe’a. Pod półką biała pianka izolacji termicznej. / Wineracks fastened to joists and wall, spacing allows for storage of shorties as well as pieces up to 8 ft. long.  Plywood behind the rack replaces gyproc damaged when a pipe burst in frost and can take the banging with rods. Below the rack 2 bridges: my 1st trestle bridge construction and Howe’s wooden truss w. steel hangers, good price at a modellers’ fair. Bridges stand on 2 inch shelving that I ran on the entire concrete wall ledge. Below the shelf, white foam insulation.

rack

https://i1.wp.com/tomi.holdys.pl/parowozy/ty37-17-jr2.jpgWieszaki szybko wypełniają się, m.in. drobniejszym materiałem odpadowym z budowy warsztatu. Rycina parowozu ku pamięci mego Ojca, inż. Aleksandra Beina, absolwenta Wyższej Szkoły Budowy Maszyn i Elektrotechniki im. H. Wawelberga i S. Rotwanda w W-wie (wstawka, 1897 r.), zatrudnionego w fabryce lokomotyw  Cegielskiego (po lewej, Ty37-17,  maszyna z serii 37 lokomotyw ciężkich polskiej konstrukcji, dziś w muzeum w Chabówce). / The racks fill up fast, with small cross-section scrap from the shop construction, among others. Picture of a steam loco, in memory of my Father, Aleksander Bein, professonal mechanical engineer, who graduated before WW2 from the Wawelberg and Rotwand technical academy in Warsaw (insert, 1897) and worked in a Polish locomotive factory of Cegielski (left: Ty37-17,  from a series of 37 first Polish-built heavy 2-10-0 locos that survived the war and can be seen in Chabówka museum).

Niecały tydzień później znów fajna rzecz za friko z ogłoszenia: skrzynka na 45 rolek map, 135 cm dłg. x 105 cm głęb. x 60 cm wys. Przekręcę na bok, będzie skład tarcicy w skali, wg rozmiaru beleczek (parę szerokości, dowolna grubość), typu drewna (cedr, impregnowane na czarnawo, impregnowane na zielonkawo), średnicy kołków.(np. na pale nabrzeży 3 średnice, 2-3 materiały w różnych stadiuch zwietrzenia) — to już zajmie z 20-30 boksów, a jeszcze wszystko nieprzeniesione z pozostałych warsztatów. Trza tylko coś wymyśleć, żeby krótsze kawałki nie utknęły w czeluści Kuby (tak się teraz nazywa, podobne do ang. cubicle — boks).

Najbardziej Kuba przyda się jednak jako stół między Monstrum i Landarą, Będzie miejsce do pracy przy większych modelach i pozostaje po metrze na przejście z każdej strony. Kuba-stół dostanie 30 cm podstawę (przestrzeń między stopami do użycia na skład płyt) i grubszy blat z półką pod spodem (płyty, forniry, rozwarstwiona sklejka  itp.?).

Ostatnia z kolei była Heb: szafki z szerokim blatem, sklejka wysokiej jakości, wykładzina plastykowa. Ochrzeciłem ją :)))  od Hebrew, niebieski kolor. Uratowałem sierotkę, jak to Polacy, z holokaustu, z narażeniem własnego życia — zwisające urwane/ucięte kable, potłuczone szkło, dechy z gwoździami… Stała bosa w wodzie, w domu zdemolowanym  przed wyburzaniem. Wystawała z półmetrowej sterty odzieży, rozbitego szkła, tynków gipsowych, naczyń, garnków, dyskietek, taśm vhs, książek…  Ciężkawą (masa między Landarą a Monstrum), sam przytaszczyłem na przyczepę, jak tamte.

Przy jednym końcu blatu Heb ma spore otwory, naprzeciw wbudowanego w ścianę podłączenia wody do zlewu, a pod podłogą jest ściek z pobliskiej łazienki.  Heb będzie więc malarnią; podziurawiony koniec wypiłuję w obrysie otworu na zlew. Za Heb postawiłem ze starych dech z tarasu ściankę działową z półkami z tychże dech i świetlikami na górze. Będą przepuszczać światło do piwnicy, trzymając ciepło w warsztacie. Przejście do piwnicy zamknie kotara.

hebUratowana z zagłady w demolce, Heb posłuży za kącik malarski i podstawę wiertarki oraz wyrzynarki. Sklejka przykrywa dziury w blacie. Podłączenie do wody w ścianie tymczasowo przykryte świerkiem na pióro i wpust. / Rescued from annihilation in a house demolition, Heb will serve as paint corner and a base for drill press and scroll saw.  Plywood covers cut-outs in Heb’s top; water connection in adjacent wall temporarily covered with t/g fir.

 

hebback Heb od tyłu. Dechy z tarasu tworzą szkielet ścianki działowej, wypełnionej zdobytymi deseczkami świerkowymi na pióro i wpust, grub. 6 mm. Panele wyższe oczekują na przykrycie materiałem przepuszczającym światło. / Heb’s back, old deck 2x6s form a divider frame, filled w. salvaged t/g pine 1/4 inch thick over Heb’s countertop, awaiting translucent panels higher up.

hebsideZainstalowana Heb, od strony przejścia do piwnicy / Heb installed, view from the passageway to the bsmt.

podporyDechy z rozebranego tarasu w nowym życiu przegrody wizualnej i dodatkowej podpory ciężkich półek nad Heb. / Use of old deck 2×6 planks as visual break in the passage and additional support for heavy shelving above Heb.

W przeciwległym kącie, pod ramkami na wino, stanie biurko. Zacząłem od reperacji rogu zniszczonego wodą z rury pękniej na mrozie. Zamiast tynku gipsiwego wstawiłem sklejkę, co pozwalą na szybkie przywrócenie zaworu, który spowodował pęknięcie. Sklejka znosi też lepiej uderzenia końcami materiału na wieszakach.  Ściana betonowa, zaizolowana pianką wg normy tylko 80 cm pod zewn. poziom gruntu, wymagała wypełnienia  do poziomu posadzki. Podkład nośny pod przykrycie pianki  zaprojekctowałm na mocowanie na dole do beleczek na posadzce, a na górze do półek na wierzchu betonu (one zaś umocowane są do szkieletu drewnianego ściany powyżej betonu). Beton  posadzki może wciągać wodę kapilarną (co stało się, gdy korzenie parę lat temu zablokowały odwodnienie fundamentowe). Zatem beleczki przykleiłem (klej PL600) do ściany a nie do podłogi, wyczyściwszy beton z wykwitów po tamtej powodzi i ściąwszy dłutem nierówności formierskie. Pod beleczki dałem izolację wilgotnościową.

W narożach ściany i co ok. 50 – 60 cm przymocowałm pionowo stare dechy z tarasu, na stopkach wodoodpornych  (kawałki podłogi plastykowej), by nie wsysały ewentualnej wilgoci. W dechach wyciąłem wpierw nacięcia grubości pokrycia pianki: “cegiełki” cedrowe, wymontowane z domu do wyburzenia. Pierwszą warstwę”cegiełek” wkładam w cokół (na stopkach plastykowych) z takimże wycięciem. Potem druga warstwa na mijankę itd. aż pod półki u szczytu ściany betonowej.

socket6

Detal rozgałęzienia z gniazdka, bez potrzeby podnoszenia pudełka elektrycnego o grubość “cegeieł” z cedru. Naroże pokryte dechami z tarasu. Ponad rozgałęzieniem, połączenie na śrubę sąsiednich dech półki wzdłuż szczytu ściany betonowej, między którymi zostawiłem szparę na sznur do radia. Drugi sznur prowadzi do rozgałęzienia zainstalowanego u podstawy biurka. / Detail of electrical socket extension, w/o the need to lift electrical box for the thickness of cedar “brick”. Corner covered w. old terrace 2x6s. Above the corner, a screw connects adjoining pieces of 1.5 inch shelf running on top of the concrete wall. I left a gap for radio cord. The other cord leads to a socket mounted at the desk base.

desksocket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

deskcorner

triangle

 Biurko wstawione, cienki trójkąt (fotka po lewej) z imperfekcji formierskich betonu przykryte cedrem, zdejmowalnym dla wrzucania sznurów elektrycznych do gniazdek u podstawy biurka. Lubię zachować charakter drewna, np. czarny sęk w drugim kawałku cedru wypełniającym dziurę u góry blatu.   / Desk in place, thin triangle from concrete-forming imperfection covered up w. cedar, for taking off to drop cords into the hole. I like saving wood character marks like the black knot in the other cedar filler at the desk top.

lastbrick

Ostatnia panela cedrowa poszła najwolniej z powodu pękania mojego starego cedru przy wpuście. Zaradziłem klejem PL. Gniazdko elektryczne otrzyma rozgałęziacz jak sąsiedni na fotce powyżej. Brakujący słupek otrzyma nacięcie na grubość sosny 6 mm. Zaś wyłącznik podniosę o 6 mm za pomocą dłuższych śrubek, bez potrzeby ruszania pudełka elektrycznego.  beton wokół elektryki otrzyma izolację z wełny szklanej. / The last cedar “bricks” panel was the slowest due to cracking of my stock of t/g cedar at he groove, which I remedied by gluing w. PL.  Electric outlet will get treatment as above. The missing vertical in the convex corner will receive a notch 1/4 inch to accept t/g pine.  The switch will be lifted 1/4 inch with longer screws, w/o detaching the box, to accommodate pine thickness. Concrete around the electrical boxes to be filled w. fibreglass insulation.

halfdone3 tyg. od startu, połowa roboty wykonana. Warsztat Św. Mikołaja powinien być gotów przed Bożym Narodzeniem🙂 / 3 weeks from project inception, Half done; Santa’s workshop should be ready before Xmas🙂

…Jutro koniec listopada, 4 tyg. z hakiem od początku projektu,netto 2-3 tyg.roboty,resztanacg]=horobę (, tempo robót mniejsze, podsumowuję od pó metka na fotce powyżej.

Do końca listopada 2016, wykończyłem tył ścianki działowej za Heb: polistyren przepuszczający światło, płyta paździerzowa twarda z dziurkami na haki (pegboard), oprawa z drewna odpadowego. Przy drzwiach ubikacji zabrakło materiału, szukam taniego źródła: kawałki przecenione (nadal drogie) ze składu budowlanego albo wyjąć z domu do rozbiórki. Kupiłem kawałki sklejki i pegboard, przy okazji zgarnąłem z przeceny ciekawe kafelki do modeli i tarczą o obwodzie wzmocnionym proszkiem diamentowym — do piły ramieniowej do cięcia kamienia, kafli. Tego samego dnia znalazłem dom z pegboard w dobrym stanie w garażu, więc zwracam zakup, wymontowuję… Wchodzę w ostatni niewykończony kąt w warsztacie — postanawiam, że też będzie pegboard, plus półka na wys. jak nad Landarą, pod półką wieszaki (przy drzwiach na zewnątrz).

Landara dostaje półkę dłg. 2,5 m, wzmocnioną beleczką z płotu ogryzionego przez konie; fajnie wygląda, mówi żona, a jak tak, to na pewno fajnie. Na Landarze stawiam najnowszy nabytek: ścieracz stołowy do drewna z zestawem 6 cylindrów — za 25 C$ od handlarza maszynami ze zbankrytowanych biznesów.

W trakcie roboty w warsztacie, wypróbowuję rozstaw umeblowania i maszyn. Piła stołowa potrzebuje przestawiania, kiedy trafi się duża płyta czy długa decha. Kuba musi więc odejść od Heb za ściankę działową, gdzie jest dosyć miejsca, dobre oświetlenie jarzeniowe, mniej pyłu i blisko do półek z modelami, które będą remontować na wierzchu Kuby.

Rezygnuję ze zlewu w blacie Heb: ubikacja jest kilka kroków dalej, do malowania modeli wystarczy słoik z wodą.

Nad Landarą są przewody wbudowanego odkurzacza. Można je przedłużać do dowolnego miejsca. Najlepsze podłączenie: nad każdą maszyną, z oddzielnym wężem, wciskanym na wyciągnięte ramię (wcisk włącza silnik odkurzacza). Muszę zdobyć gniazdka oraz kawałki węża z zakończeniem włączającym silnik…

Jedna panela “cegiełek” cedrowych nieskończona na górze — aż znajdę przedłużacz wielogniazdkowy o prostokątnym kształcie, inne trudno dopasować do cegiełek. Poluję też na drugi metalowy rozgałęziacz taki jak pod biurkiem, zamontuję bliżej Heb.

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Piotr Bein
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Posted – 10/25/2016 :  5:44:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


A workshop tells about the owner, his layout and scale. I used to be neat and organized… until I started this hobby 3 yrs ago. Now it’s an organized mess🙂 Organized in soon-to-be 3rd shop in the house… I’ll no longer suffer in cold garage: moving shop to heated bsmt.

The father of all workshops

Table and radial saws stay in the garage — one messy dusted place is enough. Small drill press mat go to the bsmt. as needed. Clean bsmt shop will be an excuse to buy a toy for making ship hulls🙂 Anybody with recommendations of small band saws etc.?

The furniture in the garage has character🙂 Under radial saw: wall cabinet. From a university dump, a mail sorter at the other endof bench: 60 cubicles, perfect for storing by type. From the same dump, a heafty, laminate-finished counter-top 10 ft. long (lab?) and two v. strong cabinets (drawers missing no problem, I store power tools on shelves I added) to support it. I installed the thing in my son’s dormitory in Victoria BC. But the stuff is so good, I moved it to my garage when moving son’s furniture, using only one cabinet — the other end sits on two 6×6 posts, the back beam screwed/nailed to studs. I added an open shelf under the bench, on a 2×4 beam to avoid dealing with mid-posts, but leaving enough clearance for toolboxes.

At the other wall I have a bookcase with adjustable shelving, shelf brackets above — for moldings and rod stock, like behind the radial saw, above a tool rack. Here is my patent: several horizontal 2x2s attached to steel brackets with gaps inbetween (insert a nut before nailing/screwing together thru it). The gaps acceptthe handles of smaller tools like pliers, tips of screwdrivers, files, chisels, saws. For hammers, caulking guns (I have 3 or 4 for diff. kind of caulk or glue) etc. fatter tools, I skipped a length of 2×2, getting a super-wide gap.

Cosy in the beni

I’ve just cleaned up my basement, releasing acres of clear floor and walls, by re-arranging my grown-up kids stored stuff🙂 Five foot shelves on both sides of 2×6 framing (15 sq. ft total) accommodate piles of boxes from the floor of a large room, by collating half-fulls and empties. My wife’s Xmas wreaths now hangs on nails high up.
Under a window and good lamps (previous owner had an electronic workshop there),I want to have the main bench… but I don’t have one! I looked on Craigslist for freebees Sunday eve., sent emails, picked up an antique rolled top oak desk and Monster = a workbench custom built to withstand Russian tanks :))) The owner said I needed two other guys to shift it onto my trailer, but he wouldn’t be there. So I did it alone, more with my brain than muscles🙂
The oak desk went to my wife’s sawing room for her help with Monster on the home side:) I am taking her maple desk. I still need at least another bench, will pick up a freebe workbench tonight… if it is built like German tank, that is :)))

Shelves and brackets cheaply

I support the 5-ft. shelves (2×6 from dismantled deck) on concrete wall ledge on one side, and on the other — 2×10 nailed to doorway stud.
This gave me an idea for a long wall: winterizing models I take inside. With my productivity and scavenging zest🙂 the garage shelving I built last year is packed full.
I like my shelves at least 1.5 ft. wide and strong, hence the 2 inch stock from construction sites and my deck. Scavenged plywood at least 1.5 ft. wide goes for lighter shelves, e.g. under scavenged styrofoam and shelving with less vertical clearance (small models) or better spacing of brackets.

At a few dollars a piece, brackets are a problem: having used my life’s supply🙂 of metal brackets, now I make my own from waste lumber and flooring strips; L-shape with a diagonal screwed to the other pieces. I nail the vertical leg to a stud, then build the rest on it, or make complete bracket on the workbench and then nail/screw it onto a stud. Simple, quick, reliable, strong.

Using every sq. inch🙂

The 2nd shop is in my former office. Computer is still there, but bookcases are filled with supplies, while finished models and components of future projects fill up the space under the ceiling and sofa and in every vacant spot on the floor, ready for the garbage bin when the time comes. This is my year-round “precision” (no claim to such :)) workshop. To the desk whose surface I’ve damaged (to my wife’s horror) when straigtening out 70 ft. of bent/broken LGB rails, I added a freebee table with nice wood surface (it’s cut all over now with the suitcase dollhouse project :))
https://piotrbein.wordpress.com/2015/06/07/jak-zrobic-z-walizki-domek-dla-lalek/

Former closet in my former office, full of empty computer boxes and plastic binders, and recycled envelopes of all sizes, now sports hangers for bags with tin metal, cables and rags. Multi-level hangers hold my clamps: when I need them in another room, I take the whole thing from the closet. Hanging along are dozens of plastic hangers to be cut for the “pipe elbows” when finally my Refinery is built. On the closet shelves, I have supplies for “precision” work: bags with dusts, shavings, crumbs etc. that I collect as I work with wood, plastic, stone. I also save clear packaging: small for skylights, larger for cutting into window panes. In gallon milk containers (top opened up) are DYI cedar shingles, chopped firewood etc. bulk supplies. Knitting rods, split cedar lumber. thinner pipes (plastic and metal) and misc. rods stand in tall narrow boxes on the closet’s floor, beside metal grills, computers etc. junk.
Figurines are all in a box, sorted by figurine type. Orphan drawers are good for closets: they sit on a shelf w/o showing off their variety.
On closet door handles, I hang long rubber bands (for clamping), belts etc. flexible longies…
Room corners are for scale wood stock. Tools are in desk drawers, finer ones on a shelf above computer, beside trays with misc. smallies.
Sections of wire-mesh live under the window behind the second desk.

That’s not all…

I lied, have a 4th “workshop”: in my bedroom. One can tell by glue spots on the carpet (dairy farm and food centre projects :)) I used to escape here from winter-cold garage. The last corrugated pieces cut from flexible alu duct still hang on a lamp, awaiting final destination (Ship Screw restaurant?). Chests of drawers are full of supplies, while my favourite model (mine loading building) winterizes by my bed🙂 Two desks of my former student kids support larger models under construction or repairs. Underneath are boxes and containers with useful stuff…. and the dollhouse waiting for g-daughter to reach the age. A bookshelf screwed to the wall displays more junk — to be used one day. or thrown into recycling.
Adjoining silly attic (entry through a pet door :)) 4 ft. wide under roof slope, received narrow shelving and a full width shelf above the low door — for locos and rolling stock. More boxes with junk on the floor and wider shelving… refineries tend to be big🙂
Sorry, I forgot to mention my paint shop …in my bathroom. Instead of shaving foam, deodorants, eau de cologne and shampoos, I have rows of little and bigger bottles and containers with paints, more in one drawer along with brushes. Toiletries I use fill half of the other drawer. Vessels for colour-bathing model components in the sink cabinet. A room-width shelf over the toilet displays cuties I could not resist in 2nd hand stores, and supports models currently painted. I do longer pieces over or in the bathtub.
My wife is reafing this, notes that I have 5th workshop: — in the shed, Right!.I store my stone material and on rainy daus may be tjere breaking countertop slabs into smaller pieces and bulding micro-retaining walls (I number the pieces with pencil, to keep track of the sequence).
I almost forgot: in the garage I have a reee stump for v=butting smaller stonewith a chisel,and by the garage door which I open for the occasion: a rubber mat for cutting hardiplank on.
All together,I have some 10 sq. ft. of workshops per sq. ft. of layout :)))

Storage containers and earthquakes

Having a dozen projects going, I put them and loose supplies into separate flat cardboard boxes (from produce stores). Sometimes large (up to 2×3 ft.), strong plastic flats are available there. I put in them plastic cars, construction machinery, copters and smaller structures… The flats stick out a foot on the uppermost shelves.

Caution in earthquake zones: stuff will fall down from shelves, so secure it up there or put your valuable toys in boxes on the floor. A bashed,light-weight model on top shelf, I packed into a boc and filled with crimpled plastic bags — if it falls down, I can glue it.
MS Owl, a coaster that picks up sewage and dangerous liquids from coastal communities, my first vesssel model, built on a heavy wood bowl) sits in a trough I found (glued together of flexible plastic foam pieces)…. Which gave me an idea for 13th project: a dry dock in my harbour🙂

Anybody cares to brag about their workshop(s)?
See ya, must go to slide my Monster down concrete stairs into the basement.


Country: Canada | Posts: 80

Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 10/26/2016 :  12:11:16 AM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


“A picture can speak and take the place of a 1000 words’.”
Why do you shout bold? Instead, suggest to the Admin to restrict posts to whatever number of words you can cope with
The art of writing has died out with the junk media era that focuses on sensations, lies, the quick and pictorial, best if mowing, and no longer than 30 secs.

***
Just came back with a mate for the Monster: a freebe, very decent metal cabinet for kitchen sink, about 7 feet long — perfect for 2nd working surface and storage.
Option: replace the beaten up ersatz top with solid wood.
For modellers of the 1950’s era, google “Youngstown kitchen pic”.

 


Country: Canada | Posts: 80Go to Top of PagePiotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 10/27/2016 :  12:39:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Monster and Landara cleaned up (will be panted eventually) and in place under separate walls, cutting/drilling my old deck’s 2x6s into shelving was their first job.
Monster did not even shake under powerful hammer blows (I drive screws fully into the board to save myself turning the screwdriver, don’t have a power one).
Landara with grace supported long boards for Makita radial that I added at a separate stand (old kitchen over-counter cabinet turned 90 deg. for the height).
Desk still under a pile of drying Monster’s drawers (he waited for me a few days outside in the rain), gives me time to design finishing the window above Monster, finer shelving above each bench…
The storage shelving in another part of bsmt is finished. 2×10 and 2×6 as brackets screwed/nailed horizontally to 2×6 studs work well. If they yield under v. heavy loads, I’ll add legs to support them on.
I found 3 oak wine racks, will hang under the ceiling for wood/pipe/metal rod stock racks — beside the hammock?
My wife’s creations — painted older wood doors will now serve as a divider, in combination with a sail from our Polish foldable rubber kayak. Rubber disintegrated since 1970’s, the sail, paddles, rudder and wooden frame will be used for something else… unless someone with rubber shall-making skills wants to trade.
The concrete foundation ledge several feet above the floor will be covered with new, feather-jointed 2x6s that I have scavenged yrs ago. I will only oil them, display thingies, old tools on them.
The wall between the ledge and floor is clad with 3-4 inch white styrofoam. It will be a challenge to attach finer shelving to it above Monster and the desk.
Back to work…

Country: Canada | Posts: 80 Go to Top of Page

Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 10/30/2016 :  02:35:40 AM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Wine racks in workshop :)))

Oaken wine-rack frames were laying around in the bsmt pantry (former “wine cellar”).
Today, I finished installation of them in a row under the ceiling, over a desk in a corner of my bsmt workshop in the making. I transferred into the rack most if my wood finer stock from the garage. The two frames closest to the door are 16 in. apart — for short stock. The 3rd one is a foot from the wall, about 4 ft. from the 2nd one, so it supports longer pieces.
Also today I finished gluing sleepers to the wall at floor level, to make up for the 2 in. thick foam insulation. The concrete is uneven and crooked; hammer/chisel went into action, some sections of wood had to be cut out to accommodate the wall.
Wood: scavenged rails of palletes, exactly the thickness of foam. I beveled its wall corner, as the concrete is most uneven there and slopes a bit into the room. I lay each piece of wood on a 2″ strip of cellular moisture break. Glue: PL600. At the bottom of the wall, there was some salt from capillary action , but I hope it’s from before I cleared the foundation drain.
Strapping will be fastened to the sleeper at the floor level, and to the 1.5 inch shelf at the top.
Over and on both sides of Monster under the bay window, I will go for a pegboard, of which I have 4 – 4×4 ft. sheets laying around. The rest of the foam will be clad with barn/pallet boards I’ll gradually scavenge and fasten to the strapping.
My cost so far: CS10 (2 tubes of PL600) plus screws. 2 workbenches and a desk — free from Craigslist. Plywood for repairing damaged gyproc (valve burst in frost a few yrs back) and wood for shelves and around window — scavenged.
I took some pics w. my wife’s camera, will post when I master the transfer to my computer and the forum🙂


Country: Canada | Posts: 80 Go to Top of Page

Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 10/30/2016 :  8:11:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Damn that Craigslist!
Looking for fruit, I spotted a custom-made rolled map cabinet with 45🙂 cubicles. Size 54 x 42 x 24 in. high, turned on its side it’s perfect for storing scale dimension lumber etc. by type and size… Just for the boards of piers etc. I have 3 types of wood (cedar, treated green and treated blackish in 2-3 widths. The wine-rack is almost full, lots of wood still left in the garage. For pier piles: 4 types of round wood, incl. bamboo.
I will raise the cabinet at the floor, add a stronger top with space under it (for smaller sheet material?).
At a construction site, I spotted a pile of cut-offs of 12 x 4 strand beam. The cutoffs would make heavy feet 1 foot high, cross-stabilized with 2x6s. I will ask tomorrow if I may have some, also 2″ foam scrap.
Herewith, I’m officially naming the cabinet Kuba (Polish name, resembles “cubicle”). A child of Monster and Landara, Kuba will double as a table between his parents, leaving 3.5 ft. passage on each side. It should be large enoughfor my largest model under construction: eductational model of hi-tech yet ecological dairy farm. I may put a scroll saw or small drill-press on top of Kuba’s beefed-up top. Anybody can recommend a scroll saw? I work in 1:24 scale.
PL600 dried nicely, holds the sleepers well. I was playing with the idea of strapping made from my old deck 2×6: cut out 3/4 in. corners to accept boards. Went scavenging, found barn boards, not enough for my project. It is a former hobby horse farm, some 2×6 planks on the fence are chewed, forming a wavy upper edge. I want one for the backboard of my workbenches🙂
It is sad to see the spacious acreages disappear to make way for sardine can developments :(((
I want to preserve the “old”-time memory in form of horse chewed-plank. In turn, when the hobby farm was built (30 yrs ago?), it probably devoured the bush or a producing farm. Before that, Coastal Indians roamed the wilderness looking for food and the best cedars. The rate of change boggles the mind…

Country: Canada | Posts: 80 Go to Top of Page

Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 11/01/2016 :  12:05:13 AM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Went scavenging, first drove by Home Depot dumpster (two interior doors, but I don’t need any),then to construction site I spotted yesterday. A Hindu foreman, very nice guy, parted easily with the cut-offs of 12 x 4 strand beam, but the narrow strips of insulation, they need where studs are close. No problem, I got better insulation (2″ blue styrofoam) from another site; thought it would be for models, but what the heck, I must finish the shop in order to be able to produce models🙂 While at the big site, I picked up a couple of plastic pipe cut-offs (for pedestrian tunnel under a station… the short tunnel I got at a modellers’fair and cut in half to make two portals, did not work out… I’ll simply attach portals made of styrofoam to the pipe).
Then on to former hobby horse farm, got the planks chewed out by horses (for backboards on benches, maybe I”ll drill vertical holes in them to hold small tools etc.) and a bunch of large steel brackets for shelves. Landara will like their company above, being made of steel, too. I found a terrace umbrella, with nice fabric supports made of solid plastic with sexy hooks on the ends — will use one day on a model🙂
Next to nearby properties slated for demolition. As I was pulling out barn boards (for cladding my workshop) from a pile that was a house, backhoe operator came and I had to leave,.. not far: half a dozen properties in a row are awaiting death by demolition.
I got wainscoting I might use in the desk corner. Almost got three short counter-tops made of natural stone. I’d use them on my layout as city squares and such, but someone snatched them when I went home to unload and pick up my hand truck for the heavy pieces… You’ve got to be quick when scavenging houses between the time bums and squatters are kicked out and the backhoe arrives.
I also found a few sheets of plexi, useable paints incl. sprays, modeller’s wood glue🙂 and a made-in-China wooden model of a cafe house with a missing patio in the back — work for a couple of days for me :)) Its style matches a bunch of buildings I’ve just enriched for my fishermen village.
Other finds:
– a dozen 3-ft. chain sections hanging on a branch (for handrail chains on piers. just need to paint the metal shine grey or black)
– pieces of metal and plastic — parts of various products, to junk boxes to wait for their chance in model life🙂
– small hoe (weeding the layout) and plastic spoon-like colander with a long handle (for taking out leaves and cedar needles from my lakes) and a broom w/o handle (cleanup of tracks)
– two cute “hedgehogs” (brushes on them) and doormats: at the outside door to my workshop, inside at exit into the rest of the basement, against tracking of sawdust
– knobs for Monster’s drawers (yesterday, I planed the tardiest drawers and greased with soap, they move w/o problems, except one whose rail I displaced while shifting the monstrum)…
– home (well) made top shelving of a computer desk or such (for the periphery of my workshop, perhaps by the desk).

 

I had to quit with sundown, will return tomorrow for 4 super steel brackets, 3/4 in. plywood of prime quality (wall finish in a basement, will try to glue two sheets together for Kuba’s top.) and interesting cladding in a workshop (brick-like pieces of 4″ t/g cedar boards; a squatter may still live there as the light was on). And the barn boards of course …🙂
My wife asked me to break/cut some branches off a productive fig tree (lots of second crop that did not have time to ripen) — she will plant them in our Paradise🙂

 


Country: Canada | Posts: 80Go to Top of PagePiotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 11/03/2016 :  02:03:32 AM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Today, I slid Heb into the bsmt. She is blueish, hence the name (Hebrew)🙂
I got her yesterday, but it rained and I unloaded today. Heb is a floor cabinet, well built of plywood, good counter-top, but 3 larger holes at one end of it. When I placed Heb where drill/press and scroll saw could be located in the room, I noticed copper pipe stubs built into the wall, right where the massacred end of the counter-top is. So she will double as paint shop with sink. Luckily, sewage drain runs just under Heb, I just need to break the concrete and make a connection.
The luck I’ve had with establishing the workshop is incredible. As soon as I opted for the sink, I remembered a double one I saw in a house to be demolished. Is it still there?
Yesterday I was dismantling “brick” cedar from a wall (for the desk corner), socializing with a bum squatting the house and with another who salvages materials on the spot. Then hauling Heb… which was not simple as she is fairly heavy, but the ground was soft earth and I just rolled her to the trailer that I parked close, owing to opening one of the gates in the demolition fence. To cushion Heb’s fall on the countertop laid on the trailer’s bottom, I used soaking wet diapers…. relax, soaked with rain🙂 A large box of brand-new diapers was strewn outside.

 

In the evening I managed to clad half of the naked wall below white foam. Today I got more scrap styrofoam and finished the job, using Pl Premium here and there. I did minimum cutting, filling holes and cracks with small pieces of styrofoam; this way I managed to save 3 nice pieces for models.
With Heb in place, I played with a partition wall behind her. The idea is to keep the heat in a smaller room in winter, no need to heat the whole bsmt. The entry opening will be covered with a curtain. I’ll make the partition from my former deck 2x6s, placed with the width along the wall. Behind the 2x6s I will nail wainscoting I stripped couple of days ago from a house. On Heb’s side, I will attach shelving from same 2x6s on steel brackets.


Country: Canada | Posts: 80Go to Top of Pagesouthpier
Engine Wiper

Posted – 11/03/2016 :  06:31:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote


i have to ask: did you run into Frank & Joe looking for Applegate’s treasure?

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Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 11/06/2016 :  4:27:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Yes! Judging by their age, they are the Squatter and the Chief Scavenger at the site🙂
I got a bunch of railroading calendars at a modeller show in Vancouver,
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48137
Will plaster the unfinished bsmt ceiling with best picks from the calendar pics. Will glue them to board scrap and attach to the joists.

 

Bsmt time, til next time…


Country: Canada | Posts: 80Go to Top of PagePiotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 11/09/2016 :  02:44:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Progress slow because of illness, but steady.
Finished installing Heb and shelving above. She required adjustments after rough transport, no problems for the material is decent. She developed a nasty black mold at the base, from standing in wet room. I covered the holed part of counter with a piece of plywood, until I install a sink some day. The wall cladding above is also removable for access to pipes. Four openings in the partition behind Heb will receive translucent material, to let light into the rest of the bsmt.
Started finishing the desk corner. Notched 2x6s to receive cedar t/g “bricks”. One 2×6 in a panel must be left loose until all “bricks” are inserted. Every 5 or 6 layers of bricks, I put continuous t/g boards against buckling as the cedar pieces are held only by the t/g and the notches. Looks good!
2x6s provide extra support for the 2×10 shelf on the concrete wall ledge, and make it possible to install shelf brackets above the desk.

Country: Canada | Posts: 80 Go to Top of Page

Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 11/10/2016 :  02:12:00 AM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Another sick work day🙂
Did 3 wall panels in cedar “bricks”, slower than yesterday, because:
– Electric connection. Power strip to be at the bottom of desk cabinet. Cord installed behind the panel, plugs into a 6-socket unit that I added to normal socket to make up for the cedar thickness. Cost of power strip and 6-socket unit about $4 in second-hand store.
– Two 135 deg. angles (one concave, one convex) in the concrete wall under the bay window. I rip a 2×6 for each corner.
– Concrete wall imperfections require filling with styrofoam strips here and there.
All 2×6 verticals and baseboards resting on the floor receive a sole made of plastic flooring nailed to the underside — against capillary moisture.
My son-in-law came to look, he liked the design with “barn” boards 2×6 (old deck) and cedar “bricks”. He is a superb craftsman, so his compliment counts🙂
He suggested to strip arborite from the back of Heb and glue it onto her holed part, filling the openings with wood beforehand. As much work as installing a sink…
I like the “brick” look, my wife too. I’ll run it the length of the bay window wall (5 panels). Behind the Monstrum bench I’m using t/g cedar boards salvaged from our previous house where I finished the bsmt.

Country: Canada | Posts: 80 Go to Top of Page

Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 11/11/2016 :  01:15:34 AM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Did 2 panels, appreciate the high quality of cedar t/g boards from my previous house. Work slowed down because of glueing splinters of grooves that fall off. Also I failed to notice early: one of the cedar boards I cut into bricks and mixed with the others is 1/8 inch wider. I will re-do tomorrow after the glue sets and I know what stock I am working with.
I used scrap wood on the part of wall that will be hidden behind Monstrum. A bit tomorrow and the rest will be good cedar “bricks”.
Am tempted to get a dual gang electrical box to join a duplex receptacle and a light switch that are now separate but close together. I think I brought one from recent scavenging.
Set up the desk in the finished corner, added a shelf above the desk top. Moving my hobby books onto it. Problem: the corner is 5-10 deg. out of square (concrete forming flaw) skew gap on the side of desk top. Solution: curb screwed to the top’s edge, narrow shelf on the curb to conceal the thin triangle (useful for dropping electric cords down to energy bar down below).
Have an idea of transition from the 1/4″ pine boards around Heb to the cedar bricks approaching dangerously fast from Monster’s side🙂
Piles of sawdust grow under my saws. Son-in-law suggested to enclose the legs of the table saw with sheet, put a container inside to catch most of the sawdust. Vacuum hose connected to that space would additionally reduce dust. I have a built-in vacuum receptacle in the workshop, will try his idea, once I am done with the walls and furniture. I have no idea why the sack on my radial saw does not suck in most of the sawdust; it did before. sawdust. The pipe is clear, yet all sawdust ends up around the saw, the sack never fills up.

Country: Canada | Posts: 80 Go to Top of Page

Piotr Bein
Section Hand

Posted – 11/12/2016 :  3:03:26 PM  Show Profile  Visit Piotr Bein's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Taking it easy, curing the cold or whatever it is… my wife contracted it in turn.
Yesterday, installed the “energy bar” and the filling around the top of desk. Finished another panel of cedar bricks, glued more of fallen off cedar groove edges… slows me down considerably, but it’s the only way to make up for “brick” material with own salvaged t/g cedar which being lighter weight is also more fragile.
It would be difficult to gang receptacle with the switch, as cables are tight. I will leave both in place, only put a piece of wood under the switch to make up for the thickness of panel (the receptacle will get a 6-socket unit as the other one did, with good esthetic result).
Moved my paint shop from my bathroom to Heb’s corner… she happily mixes with other colours :))
Uploaded pics from a week ago, captions bilingual:
https://piotrbein.wordpress.com/2016/11/12/rrrailways-sie-podkuwa-warsztat-w-piwnicy-na-zime-basement-workshop/

 

 

 

 

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